Raphael and I decided to spend 2 days in Seville. We fell in love the minute we got out of the bus. Its cultural heritage is rich due to the many civilizations that lived under its roof (for approximatively 2000 years old). As a result, three of its sites are protected UNESCO sites. Muslims, Christians, conquerors, and artists have been shaping the destiny of this city.
Since we spent half a day in transports, we took this challenge as an opportunity to become better at planning and we created this Seville itinerary so you know what to do when you have 2 days in Seville.
3 PM – From the airport to the city:
The arrival was very smooth. We found the bus (EA) that would take us to the city right away. The ride was about 25 minutes (can be up to 35 minutes depending on traffic).
The change in temperature was quite intense. It was 15 degrees when we left Malmö (Sweden) and 32 when we arrived in Seville. In fact, Seville is one of the hottest city in Spain so we would recommend to take suncream, sunglasses and a hat.
BUS: 4€/PERSON (CAN PAY BY CARD).
4:30 PM – Pre-exploration of Seville:
We walked for 30 minutes from our Airbnb to reach the city center. We would recommend you to rent something a bit closer to the center if you only have2 days in Seville (or even 3 days). With this in mind, you can also rent a bike as the landscape is very flat it won’t be too much of the challenge.
Always make sure to have water with you because the temperatures can go up to 40+ degrees and it doesn’t matter if you’re walking or biking: you will need to hydrate frequently.
CONSCIOUS LIVING NOTE: REMEMBER TO USE REUSABLE BOTTLE (YOU’LL FIND A LOT OF REFILL STATION OR YOU CAN RESTAURANTS).
We walked through the park, María Luisa. Love at first sight. The park is a botanical garden, a haven to beautiful fountains and monuments, but also the place where you’ll find the beautiful Plaza de España. However, at this time of the day, the Plaza was full. As we only had 2 days in Seville (and this afternoon) we decided to come back early next morning.
PARK AND PLAZA: FREE.
Eventually, we left the Plaza to go and explore the city center. We were very happy to see how clean the streets were compared to other European cities. We enjoyed the end of the afternoon to explore, allow ourselves to get lost in the narrow streets of Seville. Give yourself some time the first couple of hours to just immerse yourself in the city with no real plan to get a feeling of the place before digging into activities and tours/visits.
Later in the night, together with some friends that happened to be in Seville, we went to have a few drinks next to The Metropol Parasol or Las Setas (the mushroom), in the Plaza Mayor square (not very fancy). It is a wooden structure designed by Jürgen Mayer and is one of the attractions of Seville yet, it feels a bit out of place.
COCKTAILS: USUALLY 5€ (AND THEY’RE HUGE).
THE METROPOL PARASO (MIRADOR): 3€
7 PM – Best tapas in Seville:
After a couple of drinks, we had dinner in a very nice restaurant La Chunga, where we (obviously) had tapas and a glass of wine. We were on the terrace, which basically means that we were sitting next to scooters and cars, as we preferred staying outside listening to the city’s vibes. They also have a very cute and modern room if you prefer to be inside. The food was amazing. In fact, it was so amazing that the only reason we didn’t go back was that we cheater on our plant-based diet for the first time in a long time (they don’t have strictly plant-based options). Another reason was that we only had 3 days in Seville to find vegan-friendly restaurants to write about!
MUST TRY: 1) RISOTTO 2) GRATED EGGPLANT WITH PARMESAN 3) MUSHROOM CROQUETTES.
We didn’t sleep much. In fact, our Airbnb host decided to party that weekend and he invited some friends (we woke up with people sleeping on the couch) who would be loud until early morning when we had to wake up for our photoshoot. Fun.
But we knew we only had 2 days in Seville after that night, so we wanted to do as many things as possible, and waking up early is our main trick to see the city before everyone else.
7:25 AM – Plaza de España:
The sun was rising but the plaza was in the shadows, still. We were pleased to see that we were the first ones to arrive (except for the cleaners) and we were quickly into getting ready for our first photo shoot.
The Sevillanos don’t wake up early, the city only came alive after 9 AM. The tourist too must have felt the weight of the temperature because the first ones to come came around 8:30 AM. As a result, we ended up having more than an hour to ourselves to explore the plaza. The beautiful columns, the bridges full of colorful mosaics and the balcony from where you have an amazing view of the plaza were our top 3 things to photograph.
9:30 AM – The beautiful Barrio Santa Cruz:
After a quick water bottle refill and a couple of croissants, we went to visit El Barrio Santa Cruz. This neighborhood is the old Jewish district of Seville (which use to have the biggest Jewish community of Spain).
We started by taking a look at the walls of the Alcazar palace (which we will visit later). Funny fact: the scenes of Game of Thrones in which you can see the Gardens of Dorne were shot in this palace.
The Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See is an unmissable part of Seville. It’s the Cathedral with the largest surface area in the world! It’s built around 1402 and it stands where the old mosque Aljama used to be. The Christians used the old mosque for about 150 years before deciding to demolish it. However, they kept the Patio de Los Naranjos and the tower of La Giralda (the beautiful Muslim tower still standing proud next to the Cathedral).
OFFICIAL SCHEDULE AND PRICE: HERE (ALWAYS BOOK VISIT ON OFFICIAL SITES TO AVOID FRAUD).
We later decided to stroll down the colorful streets of Santa Cruz and it was a beautiful walk.
11:00 AM – The colorful neighborhood of Alfalfa:
The neighborhood of Alfalfa is simply beautiful. The yellow and white houses clash with the splendid bougainvilleas growing on the walls. Smaller churches stand in the middle of the narrow streets where cars have a hard time finding their ways, so every turn is a new surprise.
You might wonder why Muslim typography and ceramics decorate the doors of the Catholic churches. The simple reason is that the Christian kings when conquering back Spain, let some Muslims stay in the city (named Mudejars or “the ones allowed to stay”) and some architects and artists participated in the construction of monuments. It is told that the king was very admirative of the Muslim culture/art and asked the builders to write “God save the king” in Arabic on some doors.
2:00 PM – For lunch, a modern yet authentic tapas bar:
We had lunch at La Bartola in the street of San Jose and close to the church of Santa Maria la Blanca. They had a couple of vegan dishes (if you take out the small pieces of fish on top, as for the fish is part of a vegetarian diet). It was very tasty, not as much as our first restaurant, but still very decent. A modern exploration of traditional cuisine: quite refreshing.
4:00 PM – If you have only 2 days in Seville, siestas (and shower breaks) will be needed:
We recommend taking the siesta (nap) or, at least, a break around 4 PM (it’s usually the hottest time of the day and it can be a bit much for some people). Even if you have only 3 days in Seville it’s fine, restaurants and activities stay open late as Spanish people eat and socialize quite late at night. As a matter of fact, most shops are closed between 1:00 PM and 4:00 PM (Spanish don’t miss the siesta).
9:30 PM – Best flamenco in Seville:
We went to the place I was the most excited to go to… La Carboneria.
This little authentic bar with only benches and small tables gets quickly crowded. You can order sangria and finger-food (don’t go there to eat you will be disappointed).
They have the best flamenco show 3 times a night. Because of this, you should get there 30 minutes before the start to make sure to have a place close to the show otherwise you won’t see a thing!
We couldn’t recommend it enough (you can see an old yet, accurate, video of what you can expect: youtube video).
PRICE: FREE (AND THE LITER OF SANGRIA IS QUITE CHEAP!)
7:00 AM – Santa Cruz:
We took a croissant and a coffee at the Bodega Santa Cruz as we saw in a blog that it was a good place to eat but we had to throw away the croissants (and we never throw away food). I guess we’re used to the delicious french ones… and these were just not good.
8:30 AM – Real Alcázar de Sevilla:
The palace opens at 9:30 AM. However, we urge you to be there one hour before if you go in the morning. They only let a certain amount of people get in at the time. In other words, you might have to wait another hour to enter with the second group.
If you can book it online here it’s even better because you will be in the priority line and when you only have 3 days in Seville it’s a good idea to book beforehand. Same logic if you booked online: be there 30 minutes before, at least, otherwise you might not come in with the first group.
TIP: GO STRAIGHT TO THE END OF THE PALACE AND TO THE GARDEN. YOU’LL GET AROUND 25 MINUTES ALONE BEFORE THE TOURISTS, WHO STARTED FROM THE BEGINNING, ARRIVE.
Real Alcázar is definitely one of our highlights. You HAVE to visit it, it’s one of the best things to do in Seville and one of the most beautiful monuments we’ve ever seen. So even with only 2 days in Seville, you add this one to the bucket list!
PRICE: 11€ (FREE MONDAY).
12:30 PM – Not so – vegan 2 days in Seville:
We had lunch at La Bodega de la Alfalfa. The place is very authentic, both the food and the decoration, but when you ask for the vegetarian options they often come with some fish on the side or on top (they think fish is part of a vegetarian diet). Sevillanos go there for their lunch (not -just- for tourists).
2:30 PM – How to do Casa de Pilatos for free:
On Monday afternoon the Casa de Pilatos is free, like Alcázar, which means that you have to be there quite early (they only allow 50 people at the time and the queue grows quite fast).
The free entrance starts at 3:00 PM (we arrived half an hour before and were in the first 10 people).
We don’t think it’s worth paying for the visit. If you have 2 days in Seville and want to choose, go for Real Alcázar. No to mention it’s the same price and yet, it’s way smaller and less impressive. Your choice!
4:00 PM – The cutest place to eat churros, Bar El Comercio:
We had a little break at Bar El Comercio where we ate a portion of churros with hot chocolate. The place is very old, authentic and has a lot of charm. We recommend to at least go and check it out, but be aware that the churros are very oily!
8:00 PM – Finally a vegan restaurant in Seville: “Arte y Sabor”:
We found a vegan-friendly restaurant on the last evening of our trip. In fact, you could choose a dish and ask for its vegetarian or vegan alternative if wanted.
The food was very tasty, the service very friendly. It was very satisfying to have such a good and diverse vegan cuisine offered to you. So if you have only 2 days in Seville make sure to go there!
TIP: IF THE RESTAURANT IS FULL ASK FOR THEIR SECOND LOCATION (SAME MENU, DIFFERENT PLACE).
9:15 PM – 2 days in Seville are enough to experience the most romantic sunset:
The bridge of Isabel II, also called the bridge of Triana, on the Guadalquivir River is the best spot for a romantic sunset.
But we were way too tired (walked 20km+/day) to visit the neighborhood of Triana but we would recommend it, especially if you have (really full) 3 days in Seville.
We walked down to the river and stopped by to watch the sun go down behind the bridge. Many locals come to enjoy the last light beams of the day.
10:30 PM – One last flamenco show in Seville:
We went back to La Carboneria for the second flamenco show of the night (time: 9:30 PM,10:30 and 11:30 PM).
On Mondays, the room is less crowded. Actually, we could even record videos, which was forbidden during the weekend (to avoid flashes and screens).
Thank you for reading our 3 days in Seville guide. We hope you liked it if you have any additional comments or feedback let us know in the comment section.